Temazcal Healing

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Treatment, which costs about $40, begins when the bather disrobes and crawls through a small, low door. While the bather rests beneath a cloth cover, nurse assistants heat volcanic rocks with a wood fire. When the rocks are hot enough, the temazcalera adds boughs of herbs and water, and a fragrant vapor fills the little room. The nurses may beat the bather's body lightly with fresh branches of herbs.

Which herbs depends on the condition being treated. Rosemary, basil, and eucalyptus are central to most treatments. Arroyo Cabrera's grandmother taught her how to combine and use about 15 plants and herbs. Most are used only externally.

Elena Solow, an artist from New York, says she was wary because she has high blood pressure, but once she slipped inside she could feel the powerful healing energy. Arroyo Cabrera 'really gives of herself in the process of treating a patient,' Solow says. 'Her skills and knowledge of herbs are ancient. You can feel that when you breathe in the herbs. The smells open up your sinuses, and right away you are just happy.'

After 10 to 30 minutes in the steam, the bather emerges, wrapped in a sheet, and must lie down and rest until the body stops sweating, usually from 30 minutes to an hour. The temazcaleraprovides a cup of tea, often made from some of the same herbs used in the bath. After the cooldown, the temazcaleramassages the bather.

The massage is invigorating and completely different from other bodywork, says L.A. Heberlein, a software company president from Seattle. 'While it is gentle, it is also really deep. They did amazing things with the hip joints by their sitting on [my] feet.'

Temazcals, says Rojas Alba, are experiencing a rejuvenation in Mexico. Arroyo Cabrera's bath can be busy; she sometimes gives up to four three-hour baths in a day, and has now trained other indigenous wo-men to be temazcaleras, in order to pass along the traditional knowledge and keep up with the demand.

Mexico's Medicinal Herbs

University of Georgia ethnobotanist John R. Stepp studies indigenous uses of medicinal plants in Mexico. According to Stepp, these herbs are among the plants used by Arroyo Cabrera and other Oaxacan temazcaleras. Common names for these herbs vary by region, as do traditional uses.

Basil (Ocimum spp.), commonly called albahaca: diabetes, headaches, and the 'evil eye.'

Chamizo(Baccharis glutinosa): gastrointestinal problems.

Eucalyptus, called alternately eucalipto or kampor: coughs and respiratory illnesses.

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