A Healthy, Happy Planet Starts at the Dinner Table
Eating meals together as a family is an ethical choice
May/June 2002
by Alice Waters
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he choices we make when we buy food are
serious choices. More and more people understand this. They no longer see themselves as passive food "consumers." Rather, they embrace their roles as "creators," knowing that the foods they grow or purchase will create a different future for themselves, their families, generations to come, and the natural world. When people choose organic foods and avoid mass-produced and fast foods, they are voting for a sustainable future and against a system that destroys human health, local communities, traditional ways of life, and the environment.
But there is another ethical choice we make about food that is equally important. It’s not just what food we are purchasing, but also how we decide to eat our food. Once, not so long ago, humanistic values were instilled, more than anyplace else, at the dinner table. Families eating together passed on values such as courtesy, kindness, generosity, thrift, respect, and reverence for the goodness of nature. I think we can all agree on this, no matter where we fall on the political spectrum; but notice that conservatives like William Bennett don’t talk much about food. That is because of a paradox at the heart of political conservatism: On one hand it values old-fashioned family virtues, but on the other it supports a rapacious economic system that is largely responsible for the disappearance of these values.
Polls tell us that in the United States today, something like 57 percent of the nation’s children don’t regularly share meals with their families. One insidious reason why has been television. Of the families who do eat together, a high percentage do so with the television on. The family meal has also been hurt by the turn toward "convenience" foods at the same time a new economic order was devaluing the role of women in the home. Fast foods, microwaves, dehydrated foods put a premium on speed. Speed is the enemy of the ethical preparation and eating of food. It dishonors food and dishonors us. We have to make time for our food.