Not Too Sexy for the Earth
The fashion industry goes green
January / February 2006
Andi McDaniel Utne magazine
Want to save the world and look fabulous doing it? Try
on one of self-described 'luxury eco' designer Linda Loudermilk's
latest fashions; they're sexy, sustainable, and flatteringly
toxin-free. With prices ranging from $350 to $1,700 per garment,
though, you may have to choose between making an entrance and
making next month's mortgage payment.
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Welcome to the glamorous world of ecofashion, where clothing
makes a bold statement about your values and the size of your
wallet. The concept of ecofriendly clothing isn't new, of course:
Hemp wearers have been preaching it for decades. What's
revolutionary is just how haute the new designs are.
Last season, upscale retailer Barneys New York co-sponsored
FutureFashion, a runway show that focused on ecofriendly fabrics.
The trendsetting store 'helped convince top designers to
participate,' reports Joel Gershon in E Magazine
(July/Aug. 2005), and it 'featured the eco-outfits in its windows
for several weeks after the show.' Saks Fifth Avenue recently began
carrying its first-ever ecofashion clothing line, Edun, created by
Bono (yes, the rock star) with his wife, Ali Hewson, and designer
Rogan Gregory. Edun was also recently showcased in Vogue,
the fashion industry's bible.
While clothes that are both stylish and sustainable remain a
luxury of the wealthy, no one denies that the ecofashion movement
is on the right track. The fashion industry's current practices
have left a very unstylish footprint on the earth.
Cotton, fashion's all-time favorite fabric, is a
pesticide-intensive crop, accounting for 10 percent of the world's
pesticide use. According to the Pesticide Action Network North
America (PANNA), it takes two-thirds of a pound of pesticides to
make a pair of jeans. Wool, too, is highly toxic. 'Conventional
wool comes from sheep that are plunged into a pool of pesticides,'
writes Gershon. The pesticides used on the cotton crops and the
sheep are some of the most hazardous available, and they pose
extreme threats to fish, wildlife, and farmers' health -- not to
mention the well-being of those who don the final product and risk
absorbing the toxins through their skin. PANNA analyzed a 2005
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention study and found that 90
percent of people tested carried a mixture of pesticides -- which
have been linked to cancer, birth defects, and neurological
problems -- in their bodies.
The production of synthetic fabrics takes a similarly disturbing
toll; converting petroleum into polyester, nylon, and acrylic
pollutes the air with carbon dioxide and the other usual suspects.
And that's just the ecological impact. There's also the fact that
textile manufacturers often rely on cheap overseas labor, turning a
blind eye to unsafe factory conditions, sub-par health care, and
inadequate wages.