November 22, 2009
UTNE READER

Eagles and Condors - Heartland

(Page 2 of 2)

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On one particularly memorable day, we hiked for five hours in the jungle, through mud, across slippery logs, and up a stream in knee-high rubber boots. We had spent the previous day and night warmly welcomed in the village of Sharamentsa, and were on our way to Wayusentsa to meet with a shaman and participate in a sacred ceremony.

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There was one man in our group of 20 who had severe back pain. A young Achuar man, seamlessly and gracefully, began to assist him on the difficult hike. I was moved by the Achuar man's acute awareness and anticipation, his steadiness and ease, and his unobtrusive elegance and respect.

Those qualities seemed universal in the indigenous leaders we encountered. Before we went into the rainforest, we had a briefing with several of them, who are currently engaged in a political struggle with oil interests to protect their lands. Most of them are young and were brought up traditionally, trained as tribal leaders, and, thanks to the work of the Pachamama Alliance, now have the tools to be ambassadors to the outside world. They are passionate about the dangers and opportunities of their situation, eloquent when they articulate how the interests of the North and the South are inextricably entwined.

The Achuar people have urged the Pachamama to help 'change the dream of the North,' since transforming our appetites and desires is ultimately the only solution. Political and economic strategies are important tools, but just as essential is a change of heart.

I personally experienced that change of heart as my sense of separation and difference dissolved. I came back home deeply connected to the people I shared this pilgrimage with and profoundly grateful to those who opened their way of life to us. I know more fully that the life force pulsing through all of us and animating every bug, leaf, and animal has no boundaries.

For more information on the work of the Pachamama Alliance and the trips it sponsors, check out www.pachamama.org.

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