Turkey Day in the Clink
(Page 4 of 4)
November-December 2008
by Sean Rowe, from Oxford American
Soon I was inside noticing that the patrons divided along racial lines, half black and half white, none of them remotely skinny. The long buffet was freighted with macaroni and cheese and pinto beans and candied yams and fried trout and fried chicken and gizzards-and-rice and roasted potatoes with onions; with chitlins and salmon cakes and black-eyed peas and cornbread and dinner rolls and hushpuppies and country ham and fatback and grilled beef liver with onions; with biscuits and gravy, the gravy made from old-fashioned sage sausage; with chicken pastry; with pork chops; and, yes, with coconut pie and pecan pie and banana cream pie and strawberry shortcake and pineapple-orange cake.
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I felt like a blind dog in a smokehouse, and I would still be at Larry’s if it weren’t for the need to make a living and get on with things. As it was, I emerged an hour later (and eight dollars poorer) and made my way slowly toward home through the December chill carrying a to-go cup of delicious sweet tea. The caffeinated kind.
Larry’s Southern Kitchen does quite a bit of catering. I’ve written to Sheriff Donnie Harrison, enclosing a small check for his reelection campaign and suggesting that he fire LeCount Catering Center and let Larry’s crew take over the food service at the Wake County Public Safety Center and its sparkling new annex. Harrison’s a busy man, and so far he hasn’t written back.
Excerpted from the Oxford American(#61), a bimonthly magazine of writing and art from the South; www.oxfordamericanmag.com.
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