Ancient Plant Alternatives Alleviate Allergies

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Foster's favorite rice alternative is quinoa, an ancient Incan crop that was mixed with fat to make "war balls" that sustained armies during military campaigns. She likes its flavor, high protein content, and the fact that it cooks easily in the microwave. Closely related to vegetables like beets and spinach, quinoa is not a true grain, but it is rich in vitamins and provides a complete protein that contains eight amino acids. It's known today as "little rice" in South America.

Another grain substitute native to South America is amaranth. The Aztecs thought amaranth had supernatural powers and used it to make figures of various gods, which were then eaten in religious ceremonies. Spanish conquistadors banned the practice, which they considered a parody of holy communion.

Besides being trendy in the United States, amaranth is widely used in Mexico to combat malnutrition because it is high in protein and, like quinoa, contains eight amino acids. Amaranth also is hardier and more drought-resistant than other staple crops, requires significantly less pesticide and fertilizer, and is usually grown without irrigation, thus making usable parcels of semi-arid land that would otherwise lie fallow or give low yields. Amaranth alone, however, doesn't produce a consumer-acceptable bread because it doesn't contain gluten, which provides strength and elasticity. In Mexico, amaranth is mixed with gluten-free maize in nonallergenic bread with a nutty taste and delicious aroma.

Another grain alternative is spelt, a wheat relative that, like kamut, has been found in the tombs of ancient Egyptians. Spelt, which also contains eight amino acids, is high in complex carbohydrates, easy to digest, and according to some, even more palatable than wheat, making it suitable for whole grain products such as pasta. Spelt crops are more resistant to disease and pests than wheat and can require a third less nitrogen fertilizer. Spelt also contains gluten.

"Any grain that's not refined or polished has health benefits," says Jeanette Maier, head chef at New York's City's Urban Kitchen. "Con-sumers are becoming more aware of alternative grains, and they like them. Consumer demand will make them even more available."

From E Magazine (Sept./Oct. 1999). Subscriptions: $20/yr. (6 issues) from Box 2047, Marion, OH 43506.

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