November 21, 2009
UTNE READER

This Way to Shangri-La

(Page 4 of 5)

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'These are the stairs of heaven,' says a voice at my shoulder. I turn to see a Chinese man pointing at the mountains above. 'And those are the stairs of earth,' he adds, pointing at the rice terraces.

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Early the next morning I plunge into this scene with a guide, taking the 20-mile hike to the Naxi village of Haba. 'You're halfway there,' my guide announces after two hours of clambering. 'Just follow the road,' he says, referring to the dusty red streak winding beneath our feet. Six long hours later, we're descending into Haba, crossing into another world. If ever there was a model for the Blue Moon valley of Hilton's Shangri-La, this is it. Before me stretches a valley of rippling green fields crowned by the 16,000-foot white dome of Snowy Mountain, which towers over the land like a brooding sentry.

It turns out to be 'ancestors day,' and the owner of the town's only guest house is celebrating with a family picnic over in the cemetery. Huge black pots filled with pork, chicken, tofu, potatoes and cabbage bubble over an open wood fire next to gravestones. The ancestors are served first. A small portion from every pot is offered to the grave sites, while children are instructed in the art of kowtowing before their forebears.

I continue on a seven-hour walk through lonely pine forests and sprawling paddy fields to the small village of Daju. The trail continues, but I've come to the end of my time travels.

On my way back to Lijiang I ponder my search for paradise. I had found a highland realm of matriarchal tribes, snowbound mountains, yak-butter-tea-serving monks and graveside dinner parties-glimpses of Hilton's Shangri-La were everywhere, but so were shadows of another utopia, Mao Tsetung's, hardly a paradise for the Naxi, and Tibetans, since the Red Army arrived in 1949.

I'm reminded of that back in Lijiang in the person of Xuan Ke. I meet Xuan at the Naxi Academy of Music. When he's not playing literary detective, he runs a nonprofit organization that teaches Naxi music, history and culture to students free of charge. It's a labor of love for a man who spent 40 years watching Naxi culture slowly being destroyed, 21 of them from a labor camp.

He invites me to a concert of Naxi music that evening that is packed to the rafters. The Dayan Music Troupe, an ensemble of white-bearded elderly men in elaborate gold brocade, sits on the stage tuning ancient long-necked instruments. The men play music that disappeared from China by the 13th century but has been kept alive in Lijiang.

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