A Toast to Dissent
Activist beer makers deliver politics in a bottle
July / August 2006
Leif Utne Utne magazine
Politics and alcohol have been intimate friends for centuries.
Galvanizing figures from Samuel Adams to Adolf Hitler built their
movements in pubs and beer halls long before taking over the halls
of power. Even 'The Star-Spangled Banner' was adapted from an old
drinking song. Now a growing number of brewers are using beer
itself to make a political point.
One such brew is Evolution Amber Ale, from the Wasatch Brewery
in Park City, Utah. As state legislators pushed to add 'intelligent
design' to the public school science curriculum, Wasatch owner Greg
Schirf responded by renaming his award-winning 'Unofficial' Amber
Ale, reports Amanda Chesworth in the Skeptical
Inquirer (March/April 2006). Launched last November, the
ale's new label sports a 'Darwin Approved' stamp with the tagline
'created in 27 days, not 7.' A poster for the beer bills it as 'a
most intelligently designed ale.'
This is not Schirf's first time brewing up controversy. Earlier,
he gained international attention when he tweaked Utah's Mormon
population with another Wasatch line dubbed Polygamy Porter. 'Why
have just one?' the label asks.
Montreal culture jammers Rob Maguire and Ezra Winton are taking
a different tack. Last fall, the cofounders of the anticorporate
activist collective berculture began sharing their recipe for
berbr, an all-natural hemp ale, with Canadian microbrewers as a way
of spreading a message and funding their work.
'People now recognize that when you buy a cup of coffee there
are international economic and political connections,' Maguire told
This Magazine (March/April 2006). 'For us, beer is
no different. We want to take the whole concept of fair trade
coffee and apply it to beer.' To support local enterprise and cut
down on pollution from shipping, Maguire and Winton want berbr to
be made locally, from mostly local ingredients, wherever it is
sold.