A village that smells of "dogshit, seal guts, and unwashed bodies" may not appeal to you as a vacation destination. But novelist, poet, and essayist Gretel Ehrlich journeys to Greenland's Ubenkendt Eyland (Unknown Island) and paints a vivid wordscape of an exotic escape. If your idea of a vacation is to truly get away from it all, you might consider this remote island above the Arctic Circle, where daylight lasts all summer long. Its comforts may be primitive, but the hospitality is warm and genuine. And what more does one really need than a foam mat on the floor and a piece of raw seal liver?