The Mountain That Eats Men: A descent into Bolivia’s dark heart


| May-June 2009


Julio Morales Zambrana is furious. Our window into the mountain is about to close.

“Hurry!” yells Julio.

“Momentito,” says Jason.

“We must go now!”

“Momentito, por favor.”

We stand at the entrance to La Negra mine in Potosí, Bolivia, at the base of the infamous Cerro Rico. It is November 2007. The nation around us is once again on the verge of shearing apart.